Upper oil pan removal issues............

[HANDBLT]

Trying to get this pan out so I can replace the rod bearings, but I have an issue. My motor mounts must be tracs, because there are upper oil pan bolts that are right against the subframe/steering rack? Is this normal, or should there be enough room there to get these out without jacking up the motor?

Tony

[ColinM]

Should be enough room to get all the bolts out without lifting the motor. It's been a while since I did mine, but I think I had to partially undo the front sway bar. Some of the bolts are in an awkward place, so a little patience helps.

[xsmotor]

inorder to replace the bearings you must drop the front sub frame. It takes a little time, but well worth it once you begin.

[Mick]

Originally posted by xsmotor
inorder to replace the bearings you must drop the front sub frame. It takes a little time, but well worth it once you begin.

I've never done rod bearings but a friend of mine has. He told me he was able to do it without dropping the subframe.

I'm sure it would be easier with the subframe out of the way though.

[HANDBLT]

Ok I have everything out. What a PITA!

Anyway I have removed #1 and #4 and they look new? No copper showing at all. Just a little line through the center where the oil port is.

What is I get all these out and none of them show copper? What else could shed copper into the filter?

Can I crank over the motor to get to #2 and #3 without replacing the bearings on 1 and 4? The bearings won't be here till Friday and I would like to know if #3 is down to the copper.

Please advise.........

Tony

[HANDBLT]

Guess what?

All of the bearings are fine!

Where else could the copper come from????????????????????

The copper in the filter was dust like, not flakes. There was a good bit in there though.

T

[xsmotor]

If you push the rods up you can gain enough room to turn motor over by hand, in order to get the other rods. Did you check your main's? #1 journal is notorious for chewing up bearings.

[HANDBLT]

Originally posted by xsmotor
If you push the rods up you can gain enough room to turn motor over by hand, in order to get the other rods. Did you check your main's? #1 journal is notorious for chewing up bearings.

No, all I have ever read is that copper in the oil means rod bearings. Can I remove main journal caps and put back if they look okay?

T

[Stan]

>>>Where else could the copper come from????????????????????The copper in the filter was dust like, not flakes. There was a good bit in there though.<<<

Well that is a relief that your botom end appears to be okay.

I wonder if it's due to your recent top end work. Did you get new valve guides or did soemthing cause them to wear differently or something? Maybe some of the head related machine work residue was trapped somewhere and now it's been flushed out. If so, you're all set except for the near heart attack.

Stan

[xsmotor]

yes you can... bearings are bearings they are all made of the same thing. If you definatly have metalic in your oil... its from a bearing. You should loosen all the main's and then one at a time remove cap completely, inspect bearing, replace cap. once you have checked them all, follow the torque sequece for the crank to tighten.

[Mick]

Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but I'm pretty certian that you should use new bolts on the mains.

[HANDBLT]

Originally posted by Stan
>>>Where else could the copper come from????????????????????The copper in the filter was dust like, not flakes. There was a good bit in there though.<<<

Well that is a relief that your botom end appears to be okay.

I wonder if it's due to your recent top end work. Did you get new valve guides or did soemthing cause them to wear differently or something? Maybe some of the head related machine work residue was trapped somewhere and now it's been flushed out. If so, you're all set except for the near heart attack.

Stan

I had copper in the oil before the head work. It was much less, but there was some in there.

I'll check the crank bearings tonight.

Does anyone have a picture of the upper pan baffle plate where the dip stick goes through? It looks like this area is worn fairly well, kinda ovalish.

Tony

[xsmotor]

you should not have any wear on the baffle, it is a non contact part. as for the head, the only thing that could cause material in the pan would be guides... but if your guides are sheding material...it's _ucked up! valves dont wear.. they seat..