"Rose"

[Jason90m]

anyone want to guess rwhp on a bone stock s54 (no air filter, cats cut off oe headers) with a mild tune?

Ive been waiting for this day for a very long time......I wonder if i will fall asleep tonight.

cheers, jason

aaaahhhh.
just got a phone call. dyno time got bumped until next weekend.

[Alex Lipowich]

Dyno dependent obviously.

318 rwhp
365 at the crank if dyno tuner cares to guestimate

fingers crossed.

[GK-E30M3]

anyone want to guess rwhp on a bone stock s54 (no air filter, cats cut off oe headers) with a mild tune?

Ive been waiting for this day for a very long time......I wonder if i will fall asleep tonight.

cheers, jason

aaaahhhh.
just got a phone call. dyno time got bumped until next weekend.

not fair

Dyno dependent obviously.

318 rwhp
365 at the crank if dyno tuner cares to guestimate

fingers crossed.

318 rwhp that is a good #

[FRNTHVY]

327whp is my guess, although what gas are you tuning for? Either way good luck guys!

Sam

[BingM3]

RWHP is estimated between 270-280 for a stock E46M3, with tune and bolt-on mods, as high as 310 RWHP

Any tuning place will tell you RWHP is about 15-20% off the crank which is 333HP

[1990m3]

RWHP is estimated between 270-280 for a stock E46M3, with tune and bolt-on mods, as high as 310 RWHP

Any tuning place will tell you RWHP is about 15-20% off the crank which is 333HP

I think they know everything you just stated --

They have some mods on the motor. I think the point of the rwhp guess was to guess what it would be with the mods and tuned -- not just a stock number less 15-20%

[Alex Lipowich]

I believe the only mods on the motor of any consequence are the following.

Delete of DBW. (not likely to affect our question)

Deletion of factory HFM/Airbox combination with substitution of straight tube and cone filter. (uncertain effect)

Deletion of factory cats from headers, home-brew secondaries instead, similar to euro headers in configuration. (should help a little over US models)

Non E46 exhaust. (uncertain effect)

Minor change to FPR set up. (inconsequential)

Deletion of factory O2 sensor package (inconsequential)

*************

Our tuner uses a Eddy Current Dyno, slightly different from the usual types that people are familiar with. To be honest, I'm not sure whether his dyno has a "reputation" of reading "high" or "low". We're not really concerned much with actual numbers, so much as maximizing what is available. I suppose one day we may want to bring in a stock E46M3 known to have good compression etc...and get a baseline to try and see about what losses are to be expected at this particular site. An alternative would be to take the car afterwards to a more "common" dyno for a run and see where it falls on say... DynoJets....

SpeedLab's website is a bit out of date, last updated in 07, but there is some discussion of the reasoning behind their having chosen this style dyno compared to the more common ones. As long as it works for our tuner, I'm not concerned!

*****

While there are no guarantees in life, certainly it is our hope that we can achieve "better than stock" numbers with the standalone. The 318 rwhp # is not out of thin air, that is the number for a west coast DTA driven stock motor we set up, and the 365 is not out of thin air, those are engine dyno numbers for stock motor with euro headers, again, on DTA standalone. I know "our mileage will vary", but can't wait to see!

*****
Jason, sorry to interupt your build thread....

[bman]

Dyno dependent obviously.

318 rwhp
365 at the crank if dyno tuner cares to guestimate

fingers crossed.

And altitude dependent, knock off ~4% of rwhp for every 500 feet above sea level for na motor.

[Alex Lipowich]

And altitude dependent, knock off ~4% of rwhp for every 500 feet above sea level for na motor.

Excellent point.

Little known fact is that the CSL factory DME has a baro sensor built into the main board to compensate somewhat for altitude. It is part of what helps maintain proper fuel/timing, along with a MAP sensor and the usual TPS/rpm/air temp etc that we usually consider as necessary for AN.

We have a baro sensor as well to help with those issues too.

[bman]

Aye, never knew about the baro sensor, good stuff. We really feel the loss at 5200 feet in Denver. S54 motor puts down approx 250-260 rwhp up here. Best solution I can think of is FI

[GK-E30M3]

any updates Jason - Alex

[new guy]

Slight delay... Jason I am sure will post results but Dyno tuning not complete

[Jason90m]

so, um, this weekend was a bust. I can almost laugh about it .......now.

cliff notes: no news yet. should be scheduled in a week or two.
full story: (see below)

You see, my car is 2 hours away from the dyno. I currently dont have a truck, and i dont have a trailer. soooo....

I drove to my buddies place to borrow a truck. He was out of town. It was 8pm friday night. couldnt find the keys. So i decided to "borrow without permission" one of his work vans and go get the trailer.

Without much thought, i hooked up the trailer and head to the shop. hooked up the ramps, and jacked the tongue WAY up. Time to load the car. As I was driving up the ramps the hitch popped off the ball, trailer shot up and forward, hit the van and dropped the ramps. I was so stunned, i let the car roll back (now no ramps) and ripped the bumper off. I was stunned. the trailer had a 2-5/8" ball...... van had a 2" ball. aaaarrrrgggghhh.

after regaining my composure.......I went to take the 2" receiver off the van. Unfortunately, it had steel wedges hammered into receiver to keep it from rattling. spent over an hour (with torch, sledge and prybars) trying to get receiver out. No luck. Now its midnight. Fine. I will just have to make due.

Ramps back on, block the trailer wheels, DO NOT jack up tounge too far, and place a jack under the beaver tail. (i dont want the tounge to pop off again.) 10 laps around the warehouse, a 10mph running start and onto the trailer I went. SSSSKKKKRRREEEEKKK AND BANG. I ripped the entire exhaust off after catching the resonator on the lip of the beaver tail. v-band shattered into 3 pieces.

after regaining my composure (again), i got the car back on the lift. welded up v-band got everthing back to gether. Its now 3am. Time to load the car. This time NO running starts up the trailer.

So how does one load a non-running car by himself???? Simple.
Step 1: block wheels of trailer. jack under tail (optional - see above).
Step 2: lots of boards under ramps to protect approach angle (again optional.)
Step 3: align car with ramps.
Step 4: Wedge 2x4 through steering wheel to keep wheels straight.
Step 5: Place 2x4 on trailer deck so car does not over-run landing.
Step 6: Use a second van (as recovery van) parked parallel with tow van.
Step 7: connect 100' tow strap from recovery van to car.
Step 8: use recovery van to slowly pull car onto stationary trailer.

its 4am, the car is in one piece, loaded (tounge heavy) onto trailer.

10 minutes into my drive, it starts to snow.

6am, i get home, shower, back out the door to head to dyno.



At the dyno, we stated to see a fuel leak from the top of the tank (around the fuel pump gasket.) checked fuel pressure and it was below 30psi. (mind you, its a new 255L pump, fuel pressure SHOULD be around 72.5 psi.) Pulled the in-tank pump and the hose was sliding off the tube and spraying the top of the tank, leaking around the gasket.

Re secure the pump and all hoses, VIOLA, back in business.

About an hour later, we realize the fuel pressure was back to 20psi. pulled pump, everything looked good. re secured everything for good measures...... still only 20psi. fuel pump went south. Time to go home.

Currently have on order:
TRE 255L pump (will use as a lift pump)
BOSCH 044 pump (as primary external)
Electric fuel pressure gauge. (can be directly wired into dta with an electric gauge.)


anyways.... i have received a lot of pm's about engine placement and clearance. So i thought i would just share some more pics. hope this clearifies how it clears certain items. cheers, jason

[new guy]

Now I know why you didn't have the energy to talk about the day late on Saturday...

[kristov]

Mine made 317rwhp and 330rwnm on a rototest dyno (same as dynapack).

This was with SM4 and removed vanos. I did not play around with the cams either.

Goo luck!