Most powerful street driven S14 powered M3?

[Reelizmpro]

Who has the most powerful *street driven* S14 powered M3 with around 11-12:1 compression?

Oh yeah, not just cars on this site but in general.

[EVOIIIM3]

John?

I got to be in the top 5.

[Steve88M3]

Yeah I'm going to say Mike. Maybe John.


Sure as hell isn't me.

[Magnus]

WOw, this is a hard one...

There are some guys in the SIG that don't really get into actual hp #'s and secrets to getting them.

[EVOIIIM3]

Originally posted by Magnus
WOw, this is a hard one...

There are some guys in the SIG that don't really get into actual hp #'s and secrets to getting them.

Like Tad Larid's car?

[CrazyDesi]

Flame suit on....

Isnt PatP's car a monster also?

[ADA///M]

he said s14

[Reelizmpro]

Yes, S14's only. I don't need full engine specs, just HP figures to gauge high end S14 performance. I know Ralph Warren and SBI have reached 254rwhp w/AFMs but didn't someone hit 270rwhp w/alpha N?

[mrsha007]

i know of one that hit the 300hp mark with carbs . but thats at the crank

[Ironhead]

The trouble is all these HP numbers are entirely dependent on what dyno it is measured on, and many other environmental factors. So whatever you come up with is not really going to mean much when compared to someone else's numbers.

And the differences are HUGE. Just going from a Mustang dyno to a Dynojet can give you 15% more HP. And I am sure all dynos of the same brand even read slightly differently.

[ADA///M]

Why are dynos so shitty?

I'll never get why they are so expensive and so large....the dynopack(sp?) is supposed to be the best...but major money....

This sounds like a good design oppurtunity for some of my ME skills...too bad i havent used any of them in a few years

In theory in teh future...i dont wee why dyno's cant be somethign small enough to be considered portable...and even cheap enough to be sold to us hacks for home use....somethign we can use in our own garages...

Im just rambling...ignore me...

[SteveM]

I wish I could afford a dyno to have at home - so many problems could be ironed out so quickly.
I've seen a new type which fits onto your hubs - you remove the driven wheels and bolt on the dyno part. They don't seem to be much bigger than a suitcase. Can't remember who makes them but it seems very compact compared to "normal" chassis dynos.

Dyno numbers vary so much because of various factors. Which gear you're in, air temp and pressure, tyre pressue and size, how carefully the rolling losses are "calculated," how recently the dyno has been calibrated, and also how the dyno is "read"

As so many people are only interested in the "Pub Bullshit" Horsepower figure (in other words the absolute peak figure) which is no use to man nor beast, some dyno operators get good at finding the nice high numbers by various combinations of the above, or by pure ignorance.

It's a graph, and the important stuff is the shape of the curve, where peak torque to peak power is, how smooth it is, are there peaks and troughs etc etc etc!
This is before the "Seats of the pants" dyno when you take it out on the road.

Just my opinion of course, but with my Golf (Rabbit) one dyno operator told me I had over 250 hp at the wheels when I know my spec of engine can only ever give around 205 hp at the crank - in other words around 180 at the wheels. I was sitting in the passenger seat doing the mapping, and the dial did show 245hp but it's just a guide.

Steve

[fspine]

What are u running in that rabbit to get that much power? Is it an 8V?

[EVOIIIM3]

Originally posted by SteveM
I wish I could afford a dyno to have at home - so many problems could be ironed out so quickly.
I've seen a new type which fits onto your hubs - you remove the driven wheels and bolt on the dyno part. They don't seem to be much bigger than a suitcase. Can't remember who makes them but it seems very compact compared to "normal" chassis dynos.

Dyno numbers vary so much because of various factors. Which gear you're in, air temp and pressure, tyre pressue and size, how carefully the rolling losses are "calculated," how recently the dyno has been calibrated, and also how the dyno is "read"

The HP & Torque curve WILL NOT CHANGE with gears! The numbers will be the same, but the graph will look crunched or expanded.

My last dyno was with the US gear box and 4.10, this time around, I had the Euro Dog Leg and 3.46 The curves were the same, but peaked earlier, due to my gearing change. it's also funny to see the time and speed VS HP/Torque.

They are really accurate, if not no one would be using them. The actual power the car puts down is not represented unless you use NOT corrected. When you use correction factors, this is suppose to give accurate numbers for set conditions.

I feel for the same model Dyno, there should only be 1-2% difference.

[SeattleE30///M3]

Originally posted by EVOIIIM3
The HP & Torque curve WILL NOT CHANGE with gears! The numbers will be the same, but the graph will look crunched or expanded.

My last dyno was with the US gear box and 4.10, this time around, I had the Euro Dog Leg and 3.46 The curves were the same, but peaked earlier, due to my gearing change. it's also funny to see the time and speed VS HP/Torque.

They are really accurate, if not no one would be using them. The actual power the car puts down is not represented unless you use NOT corrected. When you use correction factors, this is suppose to give accurate numbers for set conditions.

I feel for the same model Dyno, there should only be 1-2% difference.

Regarding actual HP and the correction factors: does anyone know what's the most accepted. It seems enthusiasts, racers, and engineers prefer SAE (US) or DIN (Europe?) and tuner selling go fast bits use STD.

My Actual (uncorrected) & STD dyno #'s are about ~10HP higher then my SAE numbers... So what is the best to use. Anyone have the scoop?