292/292 cams+forged pistons - how to proceed?

[somaone73]

Hello to everyone,

I have just registered, and would have a question rightaway, I hope anyone could help me up:

I bought my car already with 292/292 Schrick cams (at angle 102) + Wiseco forged pistons. CR 11,9:1 and the valve clearances and all the parameters that Schrick catalogue indicates are correctly adjusted.
The car is stock in all other details including the ECU - no chip, no carbon airbox, no Alpha-N.
The power is 231HP/170,2kW at 7085 rpm and 235,6 Nm at 6645 rpm.

I have ready by VAC or Turner that the 292/292 combination is not really street friendly, but I got the car already with this configuration. It also says that the usable power is from 6000-8500 rpm, and it is like this actually; my car starts to push really at 5.500/6.000 but tilts at 7.200 rpm having still the factory tilting.
So it is a very narrow line, and that's my main problem.

I am aware that there are millions of variatons of mods that could be carried out; my scope is to have a car that I can use on street but track as well. I am sure that if I want to use the 292/292 cams, the rev should be modded up to 8.500 rpm.
But does it solve itself the problem?

Sorry to begin with a long mail, have more questions in pocket still, but will post them later.

What do you suggest, how to proceed?

Thanks for any info,

Soma

[UweM3]

stock chip and 292/292 with high comp pistons?

I will listen carefully because I expect to hear the BOOM over here!

Now serious, you NEED to have your chip modified. I can't believe somebody was running the car like this before selling it to you.

[somaone73]

Hi Uwe,

Thx for the quick reply.

It is not exactly like that, beacuse the engine was totally rebuilt with the new Schrick cams and forged pistons.
For the first 1.000-1.500 kms the car had to be run in and I was suggested to change the chip after that of course.
Now it is run in, so I should take the necessary steps now ...
I put already +2.500 kms after the run in without any problem - I hope it has not damaged the engine in any way yet...

[somaone73]

Hi Uwe,

Thx for the quick reply.

It is not exactly like that, beacuse the engine was totally rebuilt with the new Schrick cams and forged pistons.
For the first 1.000-1.500 kms the car had to be run in and I was suggested to change the chip after that of course.
Now it is run in, so I should take the necessary steps now ...
I put already +2.500 kms after the run in without any problem - I hope it has not damaged the engine in any way yet...

To add to my last post - the car was not run in by me, I bought it with 1.000 kms on the rebuilt engine.

[UweM3]

stop running it. Get it re-mapped ASAP. That's all I have to say.
Stupid recommendation to run it with the stock chip with these specs IMHO

[Brendan]

I agree with Uwe, you should have a custom chip. I'm not so sure you are risking blowing up the engine due to ignition timing though, as the stock maps are on the conservative side. You would probably be able to pick up power with a proper map, and would have an increased safety margin from a proper tuning session.

What I would be more worried about is the ability to control fuel. Are you still using the stock AFM? With a built engine like that, you might want to consider a standalone or at least a Maxx A/N system.

[somaone73]

I agree with Uwe, you should have a custom chip. I'm not so sure you are risking blowing up the engine due to ignition timing though, as the stock maps are on the conservative side. You would probably be able to pick up power with a proper map, and would have an increased safety margin from a proper tuning session.

What I would be more worried about is the ability to control fuel. Are you still using the stock AFM? With a built engine like that, you might want to consider a standalone or at least a Maxx A/N system.

Hi,

Thanks for the advices again, I was thinking about a personalized EMS, because "stock" chips are for sure not suitable for this configuration.

You are saying something with the fuel control, because, yes, the AFM is stock as well, and I have the problem that between 2.800-5.600 rpm there is a lot of unburnt fuel and the lambda value is incorrect within this rpm line - it came out on the dyno test.

I am not experienced - unfortunately - in tuning and engine management, so I am gathering all your recommendations as a wet sponge...

[Brendan]

Actually, I missed that your CR is that high. You could have problems with the stock ignition map. If it's running well right now you might be ok, but I'd still get it re-mapped.

If you are running rich (Low AFR numbers) that is actually safer, but not optimal. That might be what is keeping you from getting detonation?

The ideal scenario is a new ignition map either from a custom chip or a standalone, and fuel control either from a piggyback like Maxx Alpha-N or a standalone. Unfortunately, neither of these options are cheap, but with an expensive motor I would consider it.

[somaone73]

Hi guys,

So I continue here closing down the same subject on the other forum.

Up to now, almost everybody suggested mostly the standalone EMS, I suppose there is a reason. I will try to find the right person to install it on the car.

Can you suggest which parts MUST be changed along with the personalized/standalone chip and which can be optional (ie. exhaust system, injectors, carbon airbox etc.)?

Thx,

Soma

[M3 Adjuster]

I have 292/284 cams, and really, it is not a problem to drive the car on the street, so i would not worry about the cams. I think you might want to send a PM to marques on this board. He can likely set you up with a custom chip for your car. A standalone EMS would be nice for ANY motor, especially one that it is built up as yours is, however by no means is it a requirement. If your air fuel ratio is rich at the range you mentioned, then a UNICHIP or MAXX A/N can certainly work for you.

[inastrangeland]

Research the Dastek Unichip piggyback. I have one on my car and it has advantages over just an Alpha N as it allows you to change timing as well as fuel.

[Davew]

With my 284/284 I had to increase fuel pressure or it would have been running too lean. I have Maxx A/N but Dastek UniQ is a good choice too.

[somaone73]

Hi,

I am trying to find a company here for the Unichip piggyback.
It is installed by leaving the factory ECU, right?
Does it come with the change of the factory AFM?

Do you think I need other mechanical mods like performance exhaust, larger injectors, etc.? (for sure the valve springs mist be changed.)

[First E30 M3]

Really dont know why you did order Intake and Exhaust to be the same? I mean its OK works and its different way to cam your engine. But more likely power band will be achieve with the above member using 292/284 I think this set up will be more reliable since you will be using the car on the street as well

1st of all its out of question about using stock chip with high performance cams.. its is more likely lose power from it was before..

Why you dont buy Stand Alone system and be happy and with the cams you will make nice number. Chip is ok but not worth my opinion because to have someone to build you one its going to cost min 500$ but if you add onother 500 you are ready to go.

Bottom line if you dont use Stand Alone system all the nice performance Motorsport parts you have purchased will worth nothing if you dont do the Dyno tuning!

Just my opinion