Thread: Condenser aux fan

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  1. #1 Condenser aux fan 
    Join Date
    19, 8, 2011
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    M5
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    161
    Looks like I am blowing fuses to that aux fan for the condenser. A/C not kicking in due to fuse pop. Probably time to replace the aux condenser fan. Anyone know 1) is the aux fan M3 specific 2) good source for one?

    Thank you.
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  2. #2  
    Join Date
    20, 12, 2002
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    You might want to replace the resistor first.

    Real OEM resistor diagram and part number
    1989 E30 M3 Cabrio - Nogaro Sliver / Black - 1 of 786
    1990 E30 M3 - Sterling Silver / Black
    1991 E30 318is - Sterling / Black (Mtech II project)

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  3. #3  
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    10, 3, 2005
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    I just removed mine because of a AC removal and went with a SPAL fan on the inside. I did cut the wires from the stock one so I can plug the SPAL unit directly to where the OEM one goes. If you are interested in getting a functioning fan for cheap (will require re-soldering you wires) send me a pm.

    As LJames said though, if the resistor is down to 0 ohms your "low speed" = "high speed" which means the low speed fuse is carrying too much current.



    - Tire is the other control arm bushing.

    zhpregistry.net
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  4. #4  
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    18, 4, 2009
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    The fan is not m3 specific. There are two fans one from Bosch with straight blades and another from Magna with curved blades. Get the curved blade model it run quieter than the Bosch and I think moves more air. As stated you want to know why your fan is malfunctioning before just replacing it.

    The Bentley manual says that you drop the radiator to change the aux fan but we removed the bumper, driver's headlight, and front air dam to accomplish the same install. Not sure which is easier.


    I went the Autobahn salvage route for $100 pre-tested and warrantied for 30 days but the same fan from Crazy Rays here in MD would be $25 with no testing or guarantee and your labor to pull it.


    Troubleshooting the aux fan.

    1. Pull the K1 (normal speed) and K6 (
    high speed) fan relays from the fuse box.
    2. Check for voltage on socket pin 30. It should be hot at all times.
    3. Turn the ignition to run and check for voltage on both sides of fuses 19 and 20. The voltage should be essentially the same on both sides of the fuse. If not, replace the fuse.
    4. Jump the wires on the radiator temp switches.
    If you have 2 switches:
    a. Jump the normal speed switch, green/black to black and check for voltage at socket pin 85 of the K1 relay. It should read 12V with the ignition in run.
    b. Jump the high speed switch, green/black to black/brown and check for voltage at socket pin 86 of the K6 relay. It should read 12V with the ignition in run.
    If you have the dual switch:
    The wire colors are the same. You just need to jump them in the 3 pole connector. Pin assignments are as viewed from the connector face.
    Pin 1 (across from flat side) should be green/black
    Pin 2 (across from key) should be black
    Pin 3 (remaining) should be black/brown
    5. Replace the relays and redo the temp switch tests. The fan should come on in normal and high speeds.

    If high speed does not come on:
    With the aux fan high temp (green/black to black/brown) switch jumped, check for voltage on both sides of fuse 18. If you have no voltage, the K6 relay is suspect. If there is any appreciable difference across the fuse, replace the fuse. Check for voltage at aux fan on the red wire. If you have no voltage, there is a wiring fault. If you have voltage, the fan or ground is suspect.

    If low speed does not come on:
    With the aux fan low temp (green/black to black) switch jumped, check for voltage on both sides of fuse 3. If you have no voltage, the K1 relay is suspect. If there is any appreciable difference across the fuse, replace the fuse. Check for voltage at aux fan resistor on the black wire. If you have no voltage, there is a wiring fault. If you have voltage, check for voltage on the aux fan red wire. It should be less than 12V. If you have voltage, the fan or ground is suspect.

    Finally, we need to check that the AC can engage the normal speed fan.
    Remove the K1 relay. Turn the AC on and test for voltage on socket pin 86. If there is no voltage, then there is an HVAC problem.


    1989 e30 m3 Zinnoberrot/Grey 256k Track/M3T
    1991 e30 m3 Alpinweiß/Schwartz 81k Garage Queen
    1991 325iX Diamantschwarz/M-Tech 110k Snowmobile
    1991 325ic Macau Blau/M-Tech 178k M-Tech Cabrio 5spd
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  5. #5  
    Join Date
    19, 8, 2011
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    M5
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    Thank you guys for the great info. I definately am keeping A/C. Although I don't drive it often I do enjoy nice cool air on those hot days. We have enough of them to have A/C. Not lucky like many of you Californians or Northerners

    I will try the resistor or the Autobahn salvage route if they come pretested and guaranteed for 30 days. Thanks Sal for the heads up on that and the instructions to test.

    I trust my mechanic but i have to keep him honest when it comes to these cars. The knowledge on this board is invaluable.
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  6. #6  
    Join Date
    19, 8, 2011
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    M5
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    161
    Going to order the Magna part since thats what i looks like I have. Was the original one brass colored? The new one is black right? Anyone know an easy way to get to it without have to remove the bumper area? I can reach and move it around but not sure about cutting and crimping in that small space.

    I can always ask my mechanic but it looks like an easy job.

    Thanks again for all the help that was already provided. $36.00 for a part to test it isn't too bad.
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