Thread: Brake Lining Light on... Help

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  1. #16  
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    Quote Originally Posted by Freude Am Fahren View Post
    Decided to say fuck it and pulled the bulb from behind the cluster.
    I'm seriously considering doing the same thing. I've already clipped the sensors and wired everything together and the stupid light is still on. Obviously the issue is in the harness some place but really, I've got better things to do than try to find the broken wire that may or may not be easily found. (Heck, once I find it, the question is, how to fix it? Are new harnesses available?) Truth be told, the rear harness under my car is crusty. The failure could be anywhere along it.

    Will
    '69 Datsun 2000 Roadster vintage race car (Street driven on a regular basis )
    '59 Alfa Romeo 101 Sprint (HUGE project )
    '88 M3
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  2. #17  
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    There's a 220 ohm resistor on the back of the cluster that is often the culprit. Here's more info:

    http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...66&postcount=5
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  3. #18  
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    Hey, good info. I didn't know about that. I'll have to check that. Hopefully that will be the culprit.

    I have to be honest, the more I chase electrical gremlins for superficial items, the more I like my cars that have a total of 8 fuses for the whole car.

    Will
    '69 Datsun 2000 Roadster vintage race car (Street driven on a regular basis )
    '59 Alfa Romeo 101 Sprint (HUGE project )
    '88 M3
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  4. #19  
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    Quote Originally Posted by ColinM View Post
    There's a 220 ohm resistor on the back of the cluster that is often the culprit. Here's more info:

    http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...66&postcount=5
    This was where my issue was. I pulled the cluster and there it was hiding behind the temp gauge. The resistor had broken one of the solder joints. I broke the soldering iron, flux and solder, floated new stuff on both posts and the light went out. Its a little odd driving around with the light out now. Now to get the oil temp guague to work correctly all the time. (Si batteries were replaced, it worked for about a day and then went back into its old pegged to the hot side routine. Still, sometimes it will kick back to reading where it should.)

    Will
    '69 Datsun 2000 Roadster vintage race car (Street driven on a regular basis )
    '59 Alfa Romeo 101 Sprint (HUGE project )
    '88 M3
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  5. #20  
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    Glad to hear it. Small victories...
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  6. #21  
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    Crap, mine started flickering tonight.
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  7. #22  
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    Quote Originally Posted by Todd black 88 View Post
    Crap, mine started flickering tonight.
    mine too every time i brake
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  8. #23  
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    I'd say pull the cluster and take a look. I bet its that resister that needs attention. Since I soldered mine, I haven't had an issue again.

    Will
    '69 Datsun 2000 Roadster vintage race car (Street driven on a regular basis )
    '59 Alfa Romeo 101 Sprint (HUGE project )
    '88 M3
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  9. #24  
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    Quote Originally Posted by lore2486 View Post
    mine too every time i brake
    In that case you might want to order some new brake pads and replace them. If you do it now then you wont need new pad wear sensors.

    BTW all the post regarding getting rid of the sensor by twisting the ends of both sensor wires together: no need to do so with brand new or not worn through sensors as the wire will still be in one piece. That's how the system works: wire wears through --> light switches on. Wire with continuity --> lights off.

    quote from e30tech.com that describes it more precisely:
    the indicator light illuminates when the sensor wire is either grounded or is broken.
    When a sensor face first starts to wear against the rotor, the wire is
    initially exposed and grounds against the rotor only when braking.
    Later the wire is worn through, breaking the circuit. Thus the lamp is
    initially illuminated only when braking, and later stays illuminated.
    Last edited by hardtailer; 11-15-2012 at 01:18 PM.

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